How To: The Dry Start Method For Aquascaping
- Oliver Simons
- Jan 8, 2017
- 4 min read
We all know the common way to aquascape a tank usually involves planting when the soil is fairly waterlogged, and once planted the aquarium is filled to the top, filters on and your away. However with this comes the slightly difficult to manage "break-in" period, which involves multiple water changes per week, close management of lighting levels and duration as well as making sure plenty of Co2 is available. Oh and also that the filters have enough bacteria to manage the ammonia spikes, oh and this, oh and that. Whilst for some people this is easily manageable, there must be an easier option, right?
The dry start is that alternative option for iwagumi scapes. However despite it's effectiveness you cannot do this with every plant species, an obvious no-no would be any type of vallis for instance, so make sure you check whatever plants you plan on growing are suitable. Thus in the case of most foreground and carpeting plants present in iwagumi aquascpaes, the dry start method is definitely the way to go as it allows for a pretty much hassle free way to kick start your aquarium. This is especially effective in smaller nano type aquariums or aquariums where the biomass of plants is very low, which would be a problem in a conventional method as the rule "plant heavy" is used to try to manage the algal blooms as the plants adjust to their new environment (as algae responds faster in the initial setup phase). So hopefully that one pot of HC goes a lot further with the dry-start method as it allows time for the carpet to form without battling algae, and as noted by Tom Barr the growth rate between fully submerged and the partially submerged plants during the dry-start is trivial. It helps create a seamless transition from start up to established aquarium.
Whilst it is called the dry-start method the aim is to keep the aquascape damp but ventilated during the 2-4 weeks prior to filling to make sure the plants do not dry out but also do not rot. 2-4 weeks??! I hear you say, this is the only drawback (if you can class it as now) and it comes from the itching temptation just to fill it with water. The process involves spraying water around the aquarium until moist and attempting to keep the atmosphere inside the tank humid but not inductive of plant rotting and mould formation.
So How do I do it?
In principle we will be growing the Once your hardscape has been completed you will need to prepare your aquatic plants ready to be planted, and make sure you have some tweezers and a spray bottle handy.
Once the plants have been separated and prepared for planting it is time to give the substrate and the hardscape a good spray of water, making sure the soil is damp but not to the point where puddles of water form in the lower parts of the substrate. This help creates the dampness where the plants can root into the soil easily and not dry out.
When the substrate layer is suitably wet it is time to attach any moss to hardscape materials (if necessary) and start to plant. Make sure the plants are planted so root growth can navigate the substrate easily.
When the aquascape has been fully planted and you are happy with the arrangement we can move onto making sure the aquarium stays at peak humidity levels whilst also allowing gas exchange.
Maintaining the Humidity and Growth
The most important and fundamental point of the dry-start is to keep all the plants and the substrate damp but not water logged so it encourages mould and age. Therefore it is important to make sure the aquarium is well ventilated but not at risk of drying out, this balance can sometimes seem difficult to achieve, so experiment a little. A sheet of glass possibly some plastic depending on whether you need to run a Co2 pipe in (I'll get to this later: see FAQ) to keep it sealed. Make sure the aquarium lid is removed enough to allow ventilation and prevent mould build up.
Echoing what was said earlier, it is ideal to spray the aquascape until it is damp but not completely waterlogged.
The photoperiod for the plants can also be extended as now we don't have the battle with algae, so I recommend a lighting period anywhere from 9-12 hours. This will make sure the plants can grow and carpet/produce runners e.t.c and quickly bind to the substrate.
Thats all there is to it! Just keep this up for a few weeks or to when you see fit and your mature aquascape will be ready for submerging. Hopefully any questions will be answered in the FAQ below, if not feel free to comment or email us.
FAQ
Q: Do I need Co2 injection with the dry-start method?
A: Although I have used both after running the same tank without Co2 the differences seem to be marginal, although I use it as a form of insurance if I need to grow a tank quickly for a photoshoot e.t.c. All Co2 aids to do is offer a certain level of gas exchange helping give the setup some airflow whilst retaining humidity, and possibly increase growth rate (marginal). Alternatively as stated earlier in the article removing the lid a couple of times a day also allows for this gas exchange.
Q: Does the water being sprayed need to be mixed with nutrients/fertiliser?
A: This is a common question and it depends on the nutrients available in your substrate. If you are using the proper substrate for aquatic plants the minerals available in the soil will be more than adequate for the few weeks in which the dry-start will take.
Q: Help my plants are rotting and turning yellow! What do I do?
A: This is most likely down to not enough gas exchange (fresh air) and too much moisture to the point where the plants are rotting. Keep the lid off the tank until it starts to dry out slightly and slowly increase the moisture levels from there. Or alternatively fill the aquarium and end the dry-start process there.
Q: Do I need a heat mat?
A: Not unless the room temperature goes below roughly 19oC, obviously this depends on what plants you have.
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